Bodegas Aalto, the story

The region of Ribera del Duero has an ancient winemaking tradition.  Its geography and climate are so favourable to viticulture, the art and science of growing grapes, that this should come as no surprise.  The first evidence of serious winemaking in Spain came with Phoenician merchants who brought the culture of vineyard cultivation and winemaking to Spain’s coastal regions.  Later, when the Romans made of Spain their second home (two of Rome’s greatest and most successful Emperors, Trajan and Hadrian, were both Spaniards) the art of vine cultivation and winemaking really took hold throughout the length and breadth of Spain’s land mass.

 

The arrival of invading Moors from North Africa made for a more complicated time, although there is evidence that the Moors, with their genius for irrigation and horticulture, did not ignore the vineyards of Spain as might be supposed.  What is certainly true is that when the Christian knights of Northern Spain began to re-conquer the invaded lands they did so with the blessing of a church that used wine as an important part of its sacramental rituals.  This virtually guaranteed the success and permanence of viticulture throughout the whole of Spain.  Many of today’s most famous vineyards have some link with churches, monasteries and priories.  In fact, there is a strong possibility that Ribera del Duero was rediscovered as a great wine region by monks from Burgundy while on pilgrimage to the holy shrine of Santiago de Compostela, leaving behind some of their renowned know-how.

 

By the time the Spanish monarchy began enjoying the benefits of having the largest empire in the world and establishing its court in thriving cities such as Burgos and Toledo, the wines from Ribera del Duero were already famous and sought after by the nobility.  We know this from some of the many rules and regulations they put in place to protect the quality of these wines.  Ancient texts describe in great detail how the wines of the region should be made, transported and sold.  Further evidence can also be found in the many kilometres of underground cellars that date form that time.  If you visit Ribera del Duero today you will find its landscape honeycombed by underground cellars excavated so as to be able to ferment and store wines at just the right temperatures.  Some cellars are so ancient that they still display Moorish arches and supports, a clear indication that the builders descended directly from Moorish stock.

 

As the years went by, the royal court moved to its new capital in Madrid and wines from Ribera del Duero lost their appeal.  While winemaking continued, its main market was gone.  As a consequence, most of the wines made were for local distribution and were principally rosé wines, or rosados as they are called locally.

 

The birth of Bodegas Aalto must be viewed in the context of this history, for it is from there that it springs.  A chance meeting between Mariano Garcia and Javier Zaccagnini, the two principal driving forces behind the project, cemented what has become Bodegas Aalto.  Both have enormous experience in the area.  Mariano, as we know, made the most famous and revered wine in Ribera del Duero for 30 years.  Javier Zaccagnini has witnessed the rising fame of other producers in the region from his privileged position as head of the governing body of Ribera del Duero, the Consejo Regulador of the Denominación de Origen Ribera del Duero, from 1992 to 1998.  If anyone could understand and feel what was needed to make fine wine in the region it was they, and this is precisely what they discussed at their meeting.

 

“What if all the very best elements were brought together to make wine to the highest standards in this region?” was the question posed.  The answer was, “If we could combine the best grapes from the best vines from the best vineyards in the region with the most careful and well thought-out winemaking, then we could possibly make wine to a very high standard.”  To make high quality wine from Ribera del Duero one has to be able to have access to the best fruit from the region.  “With all our years of experience here, there is one thing we know in our bones,” says Javier.  That is, where to find the best vineyards.  Thus Bodegas Aalto was set up in 1999, with the financial support of several Spanish wine enthusiasts and investors.  Since then, it has gone on to acquire among the best vineyards in Ribera del Duero.  These include 32 hectares in three different sub-regions of Ribera del Duero, two in the province of Valladolid and one in the province of Burgos.

 

Aalto, the source of great grapes

These estates have been carefully planted with old clones of Tinto Fino (the great Spanish variety Tempranillo adapted to Ribera del Duero’s climate) under the strict supervision of Mariano García.  “We have also acquired 10 Hectares of 60 year old vines in the Burgos village of Quemada, and will continue to buy old vineyards of exceptional quality,” says Javier.  “Of course, having the best vineyards is a good start,” admits Javier.  It is important to note the role that old clones play in winemaking in Ribera del Duero.  The boom that has seen the region propelled to international fame has been accompanied by a need for more vineyards.  Many producers have imported good quality Tempranillo from greenhouses in regions like Rioja to plant in their vineyards in Ribera del Duero.  True experts will tell you that there is a notable and significant difference between the old Tinto Fino clone and Tempranillo, from whence it undoubtedly developed.  It is the old Tinto Fino that offers the most characteristic aromas and flavours in the region.  This is the style that Bodegas Aalto have opted to pursue.

 

 

Aalto, the wine

2003 Bodegas Aalto  $49.99

Theresult of extremely careful selection of grapes and expert wine making.  It is a wine of high quality and will be offered every year, except when they decide that the climate has not allowed for perfect ripening of the grapes. From 60+ year old Tempranillo vines. Aged in French casks...inky/purple color is accompanied by sweet aromas of charcoal, camphor, creme de cassis, smoke, and melted licorice. With great intensity, medium to full body, and a long, heady, voluptuous finish, it should drink well for 10-12 years.