Artadi, the story
Artadi began life as a small
co-operative in the mid 1980's, based on vineyard holdings around
Logarno. Winemaker Juan Carlos Lopez de la Calle set out to prove
that Tempranillo could be a profound wine-drinking experience. His
proof came in the form of the Artadi wines, made from
high-altitude, low-cropped old vines planted in the chalky soils
of Rioja Alavesa. In the mid-1990s Juan Carlos completed a
buy-out of the company, and
since then Juan
Carlos along with his partner Jean-Francoise have become a
phenomenal wine making team. Their Bodega owns 70ha of vineyards
around the beautiful walled town of Laguardia in the Alavesa. Both
politically and geologically the Alavesa is distinct from the
other regions in Rioja and it is this individuality that Juan
Carlos has set out to achieve with his wines. What sets this
sub-zone apart is the soil, which is predominantly chalk based as
opposed to the more alluvial soils of the Alta and Baja.
. These are
phenomenally made wines, having copious fruit and good balance,
but they are also exquisitely refined. The grape varieties planted
here are the traditional Riojan grapes like Tempranillo and Viura.
Yields from old vines are kept extremely low, and the winemaking
here is both innovative and deeply traditional.
A small
proportion of the white wine grapes (Viura and Macabeo) are
co-fermented with red varieties. The wines are made and aged in
small French oak barrels, with no stainless steel in the winery.
100% new oak is employed for the top cuvées. The wines have a
terrific opulence about them, and across the range share a
characteristic deep fruit concentration, as well as fine acid and
tannin balance, which make Artadi wines are amongst the best
Riojas available today. Year after year, they are rich, profound
and full of finesse.
Juan Carlos is a
perfectionist, experimenting with different clones and root-stocks
of his beloved Tempranillo. He eschews the wider grained
American oak preferring the tighter structure of the French woods.
He has little time for regulations and openly admits to having an
on running battle with the authorities over nomenclature and
ageing of his wines. The words Crianza (so long viewed as a
detrimental term by the wine-buying public) and Reserva no longer
appear on his labels. If Juan Carlos had his way the word ‘Rioja’
wouldn’t appear either, just ‘Alavesa’, so keen is he to distance
himself from the old wood brigade of traditional Rioja Alta.
Many of the
Bodega’s vineyards are old. The walled ‘Clos’ called ‘El Pison’
was planted by Juan Carlos’ Grandfather in 1947, ‘El Cerradillo’,
which is largely responsible for their flag ship wine ‘Grandes
Anadas’ is over 80 years old and Las Hocas over 50 years.
Fermentation for the wines takes place in a mixture of stainless
steel and refurbished oak foudres.
Artadi, the vintages
2002
Variable
weather, such as droughts and lower-than-usual temperatures,
resulted in uneven budding and ripening across Spain. Yields were
down overall from 2001 -- in Rioja, for example, by 23 percent --
though the more weather-resistant varieties, such as Garnacha,
fared better than Tempranillo. Despite the challenges the 2002
wines have good structure and suitability for aging.
2003
Hot, and
better overall than the 2002 vintage. Wines are full-bodied,
and will be moderately long lived.
2004
Excellent.
The best of the last couple of years. Tremendous fruit
extraction and ripeness levels. Very long lived wines.
Artadi,
the wines
Artadi Pagos Viejos
100%
Tempranillo grown at high altitudes, raised in French oak, and
bottled without filtration. Made from 75-year old vines.
Reviews:
"Aged
18 months in 100% new French oak from 75-year old Tempranillo
vines...Pagos Viejos is one of Spain’s greatest wines. A singular
red of extraordinary stature and intensity, it exhibits an
inky/ruby/purple color as well as a luxurious bouquet of lead
pencil shavings, black and blue fruits, espresso roast, and floral
notes...full-bodied, and dense possesses layers of flavor, a sweet
integration of tannin and wood, and a finish that lasts for nearly
a minute.”
The Wine Advocate.
Artadi Vina El Pison
The walled ‘Clos’
called ‘El Pison’ was planted by Juan Carlos’ Grandfather in
1947.
100% Tempranillo grown at high altitudes, raised in French oak,
and bottled without filtration. Made from a single vineyard
planted in 1920 on pure chalk and limestone soils.
Reviews:
"This wine is
spectacular...there is an extraordinary elegance and purity, as
well as remarkable intensity and symmetry...I was tempted to give
a perfect score to the ...El Pison ... It is a wine of fabulous
aromatic complexity, explosive richness and density, yet no sense
of heaviness, with all the elements in perfect proportion. Opaque
purple-colored, with layers of fruit, an incredibly sweet
mid-palate of black fruits intermixed with subtle new oak and
spice, concentrated, and long, this is one of the greatest wines I
have ever tasted from Spain."
The Wine Advocate
Artadi Grandes Anades
At the top of
the Artadi hierarchy is the limited production Grandes Añadas is a
majestic, ageworthy Rioja (100% Tempranillo from 70-100-year old
vines).
The wine is
given a lengthy fermentation/maceration, and aged for 32 months in
100% new French oak casks.
Reviews:
"...Prodigious,
inky/purple-colored...Grandes Anadas marries elegance with
tremendous power and flavor intensity. It represents Spain’s
version of Comte de Vogue’s Musigny ... in a top vintage. Aromas
of spice box, violets, raspberries, blackberries, plums, cherries,
and an undeniable minerality are found in this structured, ripe,
phenomenally intense red...a finish exceeds one minute, yet it
gives the impression that it is not close to being mature. While
it offers plenty of enjoyment... ideally it should be given 3-4
years of cellaring and consumed over the following two decades"
The Wine Advocate.