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Beaulieu Vineyards,
the story
“Quel
Beaulieu” or “beautiful place” in French is what Fernande de
Latour said when she saw the four-acre wheat farm her husband
George bought for her in 1900. George decided to surprise his
wife and the property in the heart of the Napa Valley in a small
town called Rutherford, provided the perfect place. The Napa
Valleys vineyards had been in the grips of the root louse
phylloxera, but with Georges’ knowledge of phylloxera resistant
rootstock, he helped rebuild not only his new operation, but the
Napa Valley wine industry as well.
Soon, he
was able to buy the old stone winery across the road, a facility
that had been built in 1885 by former California Senator Seneca
Ewer. Almost immediately, Georges added a new wing with more
vats and barrels to accommodate his increased production. Within
the next ten years, he expanded the new BV winery three times,
and volume grew to more than one million gallons. When
Prohibition was repealed in 1933, Georges de Latour had become a
wealthy man, and his facilities were thoroughly up to date. He
had never completely ceased making regular table wines, and had
been aging them patiently in the cellars, waiting for the laws
to change. When the day of repeal finally came, Beaulieu
Vineyards was ready to recommence offering wines to the general
public.
The wines
received noteworthy praise, even in New York, as de Latour
refused to sell mediocre grapes in bulk or poor wine, preferring
to sell bottled wine and wine in cask to his top regional
distributors. By this time, Georges had planted BV #3 on
church-bought land on the east side of Rutherford, adding
further depth to the increasing acreage devoted to top grapes.
By 1936 de
Latour realized he needed a new approach if he was going to
produce wine as high in quality as French wine. 1936 turned out
a small but great vintage and Georges de Latour needed a
winemaker, someone who understood European standards and knew
how to make world-class wine. No one at Beaulieu Vineyard, no
matter how competent, possessed this expertise.
In 1938,
Georges went back to his roots, to the Bordeaux region of
France, to find the man who could make his dream of world-class
wine a reality. By chance, he found that man working in Paris at
the Institut National Agronomique — a Russian-born émigré named
André Tchelistcheff. Tchelistcheff listened to de Latour’s
request to work for him in California. Tchelistcheff arrived in
California in September 1938, and California wine would never be
the same again. Tchelistcheff began producing a high quality
“reserve” wine, the “George de Latour” private reserve. This
wine would become one of the Napa Valleys longest running most
consistent collectable Cabernets. During the 1940s, BV wines
were served at all important White House functions, enjoyed by
people like Eleanor Roosevelt and Winston Churchill.
While at
Beaulieu, tchelistcheff served as mentor and teacher to many of
today's leading winemakers including winemaking legends Joe
Heitz, Robert Mondavi, and Mike Grgich, as well as current head
winemaker Joel Aiken. Tschelistcheff's work at Beaulieu, his
influence on the image of Napa Valley wine, has probably not
been equaled by any other figure in the wine world to date.
He served as consultant
to other wineries, tutored
many young enologists, including his nephew
Alex Golitzin
of Quilceda Creek, and encouraged other wine men to establish
themselves in the valley.
George died
in 1940, and his wife succeeded him as head of the winery until
her death in 1951, when it came into the possession of their
daughter, Marquise de Pins. Then in 1969 the family
tradition came to an end when the historic winery, who's name
was synonymous with the finest vintages, was sold to beverage
giant Hueblein Inc.
The 1980’s
saw more change. Two vineyards were purchased in Carneros, and
two more were bought in St. Helena and Calistoga. Beaulieu
Vineyard was engaged in a major, pioneering study of Cabernet
Sauvignon clones with U.C. Davis, and Joel Aiken was doing
extensive research on oak aging. As the 1980’s progressed, it
became clear that Aiken was someone who understood Beaulieu
Vineyard. Aiken became Head Winemaker in 1985, and made the most
of the excellent 1985-87 vintages. By the early 1990’s, Aiken
became the new Director of Winemaking for Beaulieu Vineyard. He
reinvigorated the company, bringing a sense of continuity and
consistency to Beaulieu Vineyard and its bold vision for making
benchmark wines. Beaulieu Vineyard celebrated its centennial in
2000.
Past Reviews:
"...the
1958...For me, the greatest BV ever produced, this is an
incredibly delicious, wonderfully complex, elegant wine that is
graced with layers of fruit and subtle nuances. The black
cherry, plum and spice flavors linger on and on.--Georges de
Latour Private Reserve vertical.." The Wine
Spectator.
"One
of BV's finest, the '70 is holding up in magnificent condition,
although in this tasting it was a bit tired. Still a wonderfully
complex, deep, intriquing wine, with layers of spice, currant,
plum and cedary-herb flavors that are smooth and supple."
The Wine
Spectator.
"...the
1985...Superb
BV. Dark, with lovely mint, berry, currant and eucalyptus
character. Full-bodied and chewy, with a solid tannin structure
and a long, minty dark chocolate aftertaste.--Georges de Latour
Private Reserve vertical. Best after 2003."
The Wine Spectator.
"One of the
most prestigious wines in California, the 1994 version shows an
impressive core of spicy currant and mineral-laced Cabernet
flavors emerging from chewy tannins, picking up cedary oak,
coffee and sage notes. Most enjoyable if cellared a bit. Best
from 1999 through 2004." The Wine Spectator.
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